Vellagavi: A hamlet in the sky island

Just after the spells of the Northeast monsoon season ended, I went on a trek from Kodaikanal to Kumbakarai via Vellagavi village, located on the southern slope of the Palani Hills. Fortunately, the sky was clear on that day. I went with the Solaikuruvi team, who work tirelessly to remove plastic waste from the Palani Hills, carelessly discarded by tourists and locals. We started the trek from Vattakanal after breakfast. The path descended to Dolphin’s Nose, a tourist attraction, with a good view of the valley on the southern slopes. The huge boulders and massive roots of the surrounding trees have formed steps, making it easier to walk down. The eucalyptus trees stand tall on both sides of the path. The absence of bird song was evidence of the lack of native trees.

Southern Slopes of Palani Hills

Solaikuruvi Team

I stood on the protruding rock called Dolphin’s Nose. The valley below and the cliffs across, which cut across the hills, appeared astonishing. The Perumal Peak, the third highest in the hills, was unobscured by the clouds and clearly visible in the background. Since we planned to finish this 18-km trek in a single day, we had little time to linger. For the initial four kilometers of the trek, I couldn’t spot any birds. Then I heard a screeching sound I had never heard before, and after a brief pause to analyze, we found a broken branch of an eucalyptus tree swaying in the wind. What else could we expect in stand of eucalyptus trees?  Beyond the woods, the grasslands of Agamalai were clearly visible from that place. The grasslands on that hill looked like a green velvet mat covering the hill. Unfortunately, there are  very few places in the Palani hills left with the grasslands.

Dolphin's Nose

After a while, the lantana shrubs brought some sign of life. Some small birds, such as the Crimson-backed Sunbird and Red-whiskered Bulbul,  foraged in the bushes for nectar and berries. A pair of Indian White-eye fed on the Showy Aromatic Lobelia. Slowly, the landscape changed as native trees appeared, and tree birds too. 

Indian White-eye

As the path was full of loose stones, I couldn’t concentrate much on the surroundings. I often had to stop as I  had to watch my step. However, I stumbled several times during the trip. We continued walking along the ridge for a few more kilometers and reached the shola before Vellagavi village. A pair of beautiful Lesser Yellownape were pecking at a bole of a tree. The yellow hindcrest grabbed my attention under the dark canopy.

Lesser Yellownape    

We had walked almost 8 kilometers to reach Vellagavi. This village had no road access to connect it to anywhere in the world. With no more than 50 families, this historical village is surrounded by forests and farms and sits at the top of a hill on the southern slopes. A village with zero air pollution, as there are no vehicles, but it has a primary school to educate the kids, and the government provides morning meals too. Just at the entrance to the village, the Palni Hills Conservation Council had planted a magnolia sapling[1] last year, and it is nice to see it thriving. We removed our shoes and started walking barefoot along the street, as the people of this village consider this place sacred. It is common among people from this village to walk 8 kilometers uphill to Kodaikanal, or 10 kilometers downhill to Kumbakarai, to meet their needs. 

House Sparrow in the Palani Hills

 

I have observed sparrows in most villages in the Palani Hills, but have never seen them in the forest. During this trek as well, I did not come across a single sparrow until I reached Vellagavi. As sparrows are habituated to human settlements for eons, it is no wonder to see them in Vellagavi. Though the village is isolated from other villages and towns, sparrows have found their home in this sky island. Like a migratory bird travels thousands of kilometers for food and is able to reach the same place every year, sparrows, too, find their home in human settlements, even if they are remotely located.

Vellagavi Village

After lunch, we started from Vellagavi. The breathtaking view of the surrounding valley was astonishing. But it was not easy, as I already felt tired. However, as we had decided to finish the trek on the same day, I continued. A spectacular, glistening Common Green Forest Lizard (Calotes calotes) grabbed our attention and enticed me to continue the trek. 

Common Green Forest Lizard

The path was getting harder and harder, and I had to take more breaks than in the first half. An Indian coral tree in bloom grew on the side of the path, the red flowers just at our eye level. A party of Vernal Hanging Parakeets feasted on the tree. I wondered why there were no elephant movements on the southern slope of the Palani Hills. On inquiry, I learned that no one had seen an elephant in this region.

Vernal Hanging Parakeet feeding on Indian coral tree

We had only a couple of hours to leave the forest. So we continued our walk and did not wait to see the surroundings. While walking through the deciduous forest, I heard the song of a Tickell's Blue Flycatcher and the call of a Greater Coucal. But light was fading. While leaving the forest, we saw fireflies swarming around. We all gathered at the foothills and greeted each other. The trek was ended with great memories to cherish forever. 

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[1]Sir Vere Henry Levinge, the Collector of Madurai in the 1860s, created the lake in Kodaikanal. The plant is named in his honour

*Published in Leaf litter, Spring Equinox issue - March 2026